«Fashion closes at +16%. New members for the green consortium»- Corriere.it

Four other made in Italy fashion houses are ready to join the Re.Crea consortium founded by the Chamber of Fashion with Dolce&Gabbana, MaxMara, Moncler, OTB, Prada and Ermenegildo Zegna to manage the end of life of fashion garments, anticipates a The Economy, Carlo Capasa, number one in the Chamber who presides over the Consortium which, in addition to collectively managing end-of-life textile and fashion waste, will also promote research and development investments in innovative recycling solutions. The dimensions of the phenomenon? In 2021, the textile waste disposed of amounted to 480,000 tonnes. We are just waiting for the Italian legislation to adopt the EU Directive on which the ministry of ecological transition was already working: we think the new government will be able to provide it by the end of the year, adds Capasa. Is the Re.Crea consortium fully operational? In April 2023 the go, but we are already active for the definition of the structure.

The green plan launched with six big names

The green turning point of the Chamber which for years it must be said has been pursuing a 360-degree sustainability project, must be seen in preparation for 2025 when the European Directive on the extended responsibility of the producer with regard to textile waste will hit the world of fashion. In other words, each maison will have to account for the entire life cycle of the garments produced, undertaking to ensure circularity. Meanwhile, everything is ready for the January Fashion Week from 13 to 17 January 2023: twenty-one fashion shows, and a total of 72 appointments, with the opening fashion show by Gucci returning to the men’s calendar after three years, while closing the calendar of fashion shows physical will be Zegna. And then from Kiton to Cucinelli, Tod’s, Santoni, Brett Johnson and The Woolmark Company with Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli. We await the return of Chinese buyers, after the progressive reopening of Beijing, and we hope that the government will listen to the requests of the Chamber after the meeting with Minister Urso, says the president.

The table with the Government

The financial law does not seem to have completely satisfied the sector but we realize it was a maneuver in difficult times – explains Capasa -. For example, the cut of the wedge for first-level workers and in general the government’s support for such an important sector for Italy are fundamental for fashion. Even in light of a 2023 with many unknowns.

Closing at +16% for almost 97 billion

Despite the satisfaction of the +16% of the 2022 closing forecast at a level exceeding 96 billion and 600 million, better than the 12% expected, according to the numbers of the research office of the Chamber: the fashion industry withstood the pressures in the third quarter negative effects of the economic situation and turnover still growing by 19% compared to the same period of 2021, but it is true that in September the growth was 21.3%. Not to mention that in part due to the dynamics of turnover supported by inflation with industrial prices in the fashion supply chain rising by almost 10% compared to a year ago.

The Municipality and the start-up plan

Speaking of green, the Councilor for Economic Development, with responsibility for Fashion and Design, Alessia Cappello anticipates one of the 2023 focuses of the councilorship to L’Economia: Knowing and dealing with those realities in the Lombardy area, often start-ups founded by young students of fashion schools in Milan, who have developed solutions for either upcycling or recycling of fashion items. A project by the Municipality of Milan that could in the future converge with the green projection of the room and its path in a sustainable key.