Wine changes the world. Leafy ideas to accompany Vinitaly 2023

The sweet drink of the spritz, a warning of sexual fluidity. The health and organic that enter the bottle. And then Europe and commerce, evolving tastes, industry, Made in Italy and the triumph of glocal

I don’t know if wine can change the world but I know the world can change wine. Because the world is stronger than wine. However, wine anticipates phenomena: the phenomenon of indifferentiation, of gender fluid, was not born with Alessandro Michele (remember him?) and the Gucci fashion shows (remember them?) in which the difference between man and woman disappeared. I saw the disastrous phenomenon (also disastrous for demographic purposes, I would say) born not by looking at the fashion shows but by looking at the spritzes: males and females drank them indifferently. Spritz is a sweet or at least sweetish drink. This is a moment of crisis for sweet wine, which no longer attracts because it is considered grandmother’s wine, a Gozzanian wine, but equally sweet wine is drunk, or sweetish if not sweet: as long as it is not declared as such. Or precisely spritz, which is not really dry. Each has its own receptors: unlike what a friend of mine perceives, I perceive the Negroni as sweet and therefore when I have it made instead of the Martini, I ask for Punt e Mes, that is, a slightly more bitter vermouth. Otherwise, in the tumbler I find the bitter which is not really bitter, the Martini which is really very sweet…