Vivienne Westwood, the last interview with La Stampa in 2018: “My battle is for sustainable fashion. Buy less and better”

White as porcelain, very thin yet so strong and determined, Vivienne Westwood only feels annoyed to talk about fashion. It seems incredible but that’s how it is, she is a cult stylist who has revolutionized the very concept of fashion, today she feels past it, almost misleading. Other urgent needs have arisen in her life that need to be discussed. This is why she accepted the invitation to the Ischia Global Fest, a way to be able to talk about climate change in which she has become an expert.

Mrs Westwood, what is troubling you so much?
«It should not only upset me but all the politicians who turn their heads the other way. We are approaching the point of no return, the geothermal map tells us that if we do not remedy immediately there will be a very strong avalanche effect and a part of the world will no longer be habitable. In a generation, only one billion people will have a chance to live. But this is only talked about in scientific circles. The financial system is rotten, 1% of the population owns the wealth and the poor are getting poorer. The system should be reversed. Immediately”.

Where to start?
«A project is being studied to save the rain forest, it is thought to help the Aboriginal people to buy property titles and manage them properly, thus contributing to saving the forest. Queen Elizabeth also sent her contribution to the campaign: “Every pound saves a tree and thus saves the world”. And then distribute the water, the resources; what nature gives us must not be the property of a few”.When did you realize that this topic was close to your heart?«I have always dealt with human rights, seven years ago I read an interview in the Guardian with James Lovelock, a British chemist, scientist and independent environmentalist. He is the father of the Gaia theory concerning the balance of the biosphere. I was struck by his work, by the end of this century – he wrote – there will be drought, famine, terrible wars of survival, the world will be an unlivable place. I created a site that has become an NGO that stimulates contacts, I have a charity, Coolers, which works with large organizations to create interest in the issue, stimulate governments before bankruptcy. It is no longer time for studies, we must act».

Vivienne Westwood’s “letter to the Earth” for the COP26 a year ago

And Trump in all this?
“Trump represents America who is against the strategy of change. I am organizing an art exhibition which will cost a hundred million pounds with installations explaining the situation.’Fashion, excuse me for mentioning it, is an excellent vehicle for sending messages. Or has he done his job?“I don’t follow what other people are doing. Now I’m trying to save my company by bringing it back to a sustainability idea. Whoever ran it before followed rules that I abhor. Five years ago I took over control by reducing waste, producing quality and less quantity, clothes within the reach of young people and sustainable. I have decided with my husband Andreas Kronthaler to reduce the offers. I said to myself: before he dies he changes everything and make it one of your battles. Turn it into a non-profit company.”

His philosophy is to cut down on waste, in a reality addicted to consumerism.
«The slogan is: more quality, less quantity. Too much stuff is produced in the Western world, we buy a lot of useless rubbish that kills us and doesn’t give us any good. What is good today, if of good quality, will be good for ten years».He should talk about it with his colleagues…«I don’t follow the other stylists but I look around and I see people who dress very badly. There’s no care in choosing the garments, they don’t know how to make them last. Today I have a collaboration with Burberry and the profits from the sales go to my charity. I met Riccardo Tisci and we are on the same wavelength».

A piece of advice to give to customers too?
«Make the best use of what you buy, develop your own style, don’t accumulate useless clothes. A shirt and a skirt, what’s more sexy and beautiful? Make your own style, customize, be your own stylist. He plays with clothes matching them according to how you feel: so who you really are comes out. Instead, I say to fashion creators that they should work better and offer only quality. Mass production has killed beauty. By buying less, even the creatives will be encouraged to do better».

Was it once different?
«The fashion of the past was kinder to people. It was designed for normal bodies, for human proportions. Today there are people who buy clothes that don’t fit their bodies. It’s terrible”.Carrie Bradshaw’s wedding dress in Sex & The City was a dream.“Yes the Cloud Dress made history. Sarah Jessica Parker is completely flat, I put padding on her breasts. In the end she was fine.”What do you recommend to young people?“To read. I created a reading club for kids. Advise Young Holden by JD Salinger, Of Mice and Men by John Steinbeck e The Adventures of Pinocchio by Carlo Collodi. The book makes you think, something always happens to history and to you. At the cinema you see how others have decided, with the book you put your imagination into it».She is the queen’s lady. What effect does it have on her?“I’m proud but I don’t talk about it.”