Slow Fiber: a more durable, clean and fair fashion supply chain
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After Slow foodan international association founded in 1986 from a winning idea by Charles Petrini to promote “good, clean and fair” food, the time has come Slow Fibera business network that wants to demonstrate that textiles can be durable and healthy, founded by Dario Casalini.
Longform
Can the fashion industry become sustainable?
by Vittorio Emanuele Orlando
Some of the issues of fast fashion are increasingly evident: every year in the European Union they are discarded 5.8 million tons of textile products and only the1% of garments worldwide are recycled in new clothes. In the first months of 2023, the European Commission launched the campaign Reset The trend to promote a more circular and sustainable fashion.
Oppose waste of this sector is also the goal of Slow Fiber. “The idea,” he says Dario Casalini – is to create a way of producing and consuming different from fast fashion in terms of the duration of the goods we produce and the value content that the supply chain reflects both in environmental and social terms. That model is based on quantity, speed, standardization and also exploitation, while ours is based on slowness and quality that lasts over time. Garments that are healthy for the wearer, environmentally clean, and just because their makers were properly compensated.”
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Michela Chereches, the seamstress of natural raw materials
by Agostina Delli Compagni
Slow Fiber network criteria
“Every key word – claims the founder – we have declined into a series of requirements that are around eighty in all. Some are mandatory while for others we are all committed to improving over time. If, for example, a company self-produces a certain part of renewable energy promises to do more in the future. But it’s important that it reflects on the entire supply chain.”
The KPIs are declined by key word, to the adjective “good”, for example, they correspond: the guarantee of traceability and transparency of the supply chain, the link and roots in the territory of origin and a corporate mission that explicitly includes sustainability (drawing up and periodic reports, including the balance sheet).
Companies
Recycled bamboo, plastic and cashmere for environmentally friendly textiles
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By “healthy”, on the other hand, we mean compliance with the EU “REACH” Regulation or the “ZDHC” protocol and periodic chemical audits also on its suppliers. Some of the criteria relating to “clean” are: drafting of an environmental policy in which commitments, objectives and actions are specified, but also compliance with regulations on the regulation and management of water discharges, atmospheric emissions and waste. The use of energy from renewable sources, the implementation of criteria eco-design and of projects of circular economy, upcycling, etc. and the use of certified natural fibers (eg FSC) or synthetic fibers deriving from recycling are other aspects that the network wants to highlight.
The adjective “Right”instead, it must be characterized, for example, by: compliance with the applicable CCNL, support for the rights to a decent wage and work-life balance; compliance with workplace health and safety standards; mapping of the supply chain and identification of suppliers at risk, to prevent any form of exploitation of child or child labour.
Finance and sustainability
Fashion, ratings and certifications no longer guarantee against greenwashing
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What, on the other hand, are the criteria relating to the term “durable” for Slow Fiber? The presence of a quality management system is highlighted; the LCA or PEF measurement on its products, the activation of after-sales services to limit the impact of the garments at the end of their life or prolong their use; and training and dissemination of practices for correct maintenance.
“In Oscalito – says the founder – for example, we use only raw materials of natural origin and we feed ourselves only with green energy, the supply chains are close (Italian and European) and our relationship with partners is long-lasting with fair conditions that make both grow. The companies that are in the group are ZDHC certified, a very high standard, and are committed to ever-less water consumption. Many companies that are part of the network are GOTS or Ecotex certified. compared to the Italian legislation, even higher but progressive voluntary standards.”
Companies and goals for a more sustainable fashion
The companies that are part of Slow Fiber represent the entire supply chain: from the fiber to the finished product. Currently these are the companies in the network: Pettinatura di Verrone, Lanecardate, Italfil, Olcese Ferrari, Tintoria Felli, Finissaggio2000, Maglificio Maggia, Vitale Barberis Canonico, Oscalito, Remmert, Pattern and Holding Moda (grouping companies that are born as family members and make virtuous productions and niche and work for large luxury groups), Quagliotti, L’Opificio and Dinole.
Economy and sustainability
From Venice the call for a sustainable fashion industry
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Casalini claims that “we work on two parallel paths: on the one hand, we would like all companies like us to join the project so as to protect and promote the Italian textile supply chain and continue along the path of sustainability. On the other, we focus on communication and consumer education to change his purchasing habits in order to buy better, less and by looking at the value chain that the garment has.
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The rediscovery of second-hand goods for the environment and savings: the Vinted phenomenon
by Fiammetta Cupellaro
We know a lot about food but little about textiles. There sustainability for us it is a journey, a path to take, it cannot be 100% because everything we do has an impact. Every day, however, you have to work hard to make a little more.”
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