Armani in the nautical, magnificence and background of the debut of an icon

The most touching moment from the debut evening of Admiral 72 by Giorgio Armani was the standing ovation given to the iconic designer by the 700 guests at the unveling party. All standing on the steps with leather seats set up in the shipyard in front of the megayacht. The Maestro, dressed in blue as per his habit and accompanied by the founder of The Italian Sea Group Giovanni Costantino, returned the warm welcome with a smile and folded hands – applause, shouts, flashes – and then, turning towards the boat, he mimicked the gesture that could be translated as “wow!”. But the emotions, in what Costantino called the “Italian factory of emotions”, were many.

From Tecnomar to Armani

There has been much mystery surrounding the new Admiral 72, whose lines have been kept under wraps for a long time. In the beginning, it seemed that it should be Armani’s new boat, to replace his Main, a 65-metre from 2008 built by Codecasa. From here, the reason for Armani’s entry into the capital of The Italian Sea Group was also hypothesized, which today has a 4.99% stake. But no, because during the evening Constantine mentioned the name and surname – publicly and courageously – of the real Greek-Cypriot owner (I’ll ask him, so as not to miss the initial consonant).

However, I must begin to tell starting from the group, briefly. To then get to the Master. Therefore, The Italian Sea Group was founded by Giovanni Costantino in 2020. But the former manager of the Natuzzi brand had already begun to navigate the nautical sector well before, acquiring historic brands such as Tecnomar in 2009, Admiral in 2011, then extending with the New Cantieri Apuania of Marina di Carrara in 2012. Not just a coup, the latter. With the NCAs Costantino has placed in his portfolio a production area of ​​great extension and strategic value. on the spot it seems that no one bet on this battle of his at the time, namely that of getting his hands on these airports, but above all to stir the waters of a “cathedral” of the public system. In the end, Costantino succeeded and brought his headquarters to Marina di Carrara, turning over, renovating and renovating areas and warehouses, where, in addition to technology, he brought art – a collection – and motivating phrases written in large letters on the walls of the establishment.

In 2020, he then set up The Italian Sea Group, within which in 2021 he accompanied two other high-level brands, Perini Navi with its sailing ships (armed by Berlusconi, Murdoch, Doris among others) and Picchiotti, the oldest shipyard of history (1575), taken over by bankruptcy of the former. Costantino in this adventure got the better of weighty competitors, such as Sanlorenzo and Ferretti, but also of an American fund; this, by paying a sum – eighty million euros – which for some was excessive. He, Constantine, however, went ahead on his path. Which is also made up of a secluded position with respect to the mainstream, trade associations and trade shows, except for that of the Principality of Monaco.

A particular man, even placing, who like – he said in the opening address of the evening of Admiral 72 by Armani unveling – those projects that seen from the outside could appear crazy. Definitely, convincing. So much so as to list TISG on the Stock Exchange in 2021 (4.9 euros the price per share of the placement, 6.8 euros today) and sign partnerships – but this is not the chronological order – with iconic brands. Prima Lamborghini, with which he launched a series of Tecnomar by Lamborghini sport motorboats, distinguished by the number 63 (“63 the number of models we will make and which are inspired by the Lamborghini Sian 63; 1963, the year the car brand was founded and my date of birth”, said Costantino), then precisely Giorgio Armani.

On stage at the unveling party, the founder of TISG recounted the spark from which the collaboration with the stylist was born. Storytelling has impact, so let’s not go further (why ruin a good story…). “I was in Milan, I passed in front of the Armani Casa windows and I said to myself: ‘Imagine what a yacht would be that concentrated all the peculiarities of the Armani style…’. I speed up. Thanks to Fabrice Gouffran, director of Armani Casa & Hotel, Costantino meets the stylist. “We talked for about twenty minutes, then he got up, greeted me cordially and went away… I turn to Gouffran and ask him how the meeting went. But at that moment Mr. Armani returns, with a large book which he places on the table, opens it and drawing me a sketch he says: ‘Giovanni, this is the first yacht I am designing for you’”. The discussion between the two maisons continues. “After eight months everything is ready. ‘Are we leaving?, I ask”, Costantino continues. “No, they answer me. ‘We need to see if a feeling arises between you and Mr. Armani’”. She is born.

The celebration of the first boat

The evening of the unveling was a riot. From what they told me, it was directed by those who take care of the Armani events and it cost the shipyard a few million. Magnificent. The staff was an army, moving among the 700 guests in tuxedos and long dresses (Black tie, the invitation), gathered in a shed on the construction site that didn’t even look like it, it was so scenic. The welcome, the steps, the opening speech with which Costantino retraced the history of the group and unveiled the next several (there is a lot of irons in the fire, starting with the 47-metre catamaran, “largest in the world”, designed by ‘architect Axel de Beaufort, which will become a floating art gallery for the president of the Louvre Museum), then the unveling.

Attention. Given the mystery that has been kept on this boat, I even expected the handover ceremony to be held. In short, the launch, albeit at night. It was not so. From the steps we saw the light of the laser mapping stand out on a large scene, which traced the shape of the boat (they say it will be called GeKo, but I don’t know for sure). Renderings, images of the interiors – Armani has brought his colours, his elegance, his minimalism both in the furnishings and in the external lines, from the rigor that softens in rounded geometries and in structural elements of great impact, such as the incredible full-light aft deck -. And then she appeared. I confess that at first it seemed to me drawn on the veil of the wall. Only later did I realize, and others like me, that it was indeed the boat, packaged as if it were a work by Christo Vladimirov Javacheff, in all its 72 metres. Boom!

At this point the fashion show of the Armani men’s/women’s collection began. Seventy men and women models who eventually all lined up together to receive the applause. It was at this moment that Giorgio Armani appeared. Standing ovation, pure emotion. This man represents so much, who accompanied the release of each of his models with his personal applause and who then let himself be embraced, not only metaphorically, by the guests. Photos, flashes, selfies, kisses, handshakes and lots of compliments on the boat. There were those who told me that until the very end his participation was not certain, that indeed it was more no than yes. He was probably wrong. Following the placée dinner, curated by the three-star battery of the Da Vittorio restaurant in Brusaporto of the Cerea family and a musical accompaniment by a group of artists who in the end made almost everyone dance. In the room, among others, the king of cashmere Brunello Cucinelli (a colleague asked him if he would buy a boat, he replied that he is afraid of the sea), the former shareholder of Salmoraghi & Viganò and Perini Navi Edoardo Tabacchi, the actresses Claudia Gerini, Barbara Ronchi and Katia Smutniak, the top model Eugenia Silva…

The value of a partnership

There were compliments, and many, also for Giovanni Costantino. The partnership with Giorgio Armani is a big hit. Needless to say what the designer represents in the world. Instead, one can reflect on the quid that he can bring not only to The Italian Sea Group but also to boating, which is enriched by his signature and his name – we are talking about Italian boating (I emphasize it). A star who loves the sea, who recognizes it as his passion together with design. That he is an owner and therefore he knows what to ask and what a boat has to give. The Admiral 72 which has been unveiled, and which will be launched in 2024, will be followed by a second model, also designed by Armani with the Admiral style centre. It actually says on the stern: Admiral 72 by Giorgio Armani. An undoubted added value.