Here the ocean is sacred: Tahiti rediscovers biodiversity

The calm and crystalline water of the lagoon ofisland of Moorea appears like a charm from the aircraft of Air Tahiti Nui. The pointed peak of Mount Rotui overlooks the Opunohu bay and with its luxuriant vegetation colors the landscape dominated by the sea green. Here, among the islands of French Polynesiaa surprising miracle is hidden right in the sea: an unparalleled biodiversity.

Polynesia’s marine ecosystem is home to more than 20 shark species and an exceptionally healthy coral reef system, which includes 176 coral species and 1,024 fish species, including some found nowhere else. What from above looks like a uniform and infinite blue expanse, in reality turns out to be a very lively ecosystem, inhabited by myriads of parrot fish, rays and black tip sharks that swim placidly, projecting their shadows on the white sand of the seabed. A biodiversity that is also preserved through local knowledge and traditional culture.

Maui takes his hand off the rudder and points his finger towards a precise area, just beyond the lagoon: “During the dry season, from approximately July to November, the whales come here to give birth. In the months when they stop off our coasts, these incredible marine mammals fast and devote themselves entirely to caring for their young. Towards November they set off again and, after almost two months and 12,000 kilometres, they arrive in Antarctica, where they will remain for the months to come.” Talking is Maui Pacifiers, expert whale connoisseur and founder of Coralina Tours. For years it has been bringing enthusiasts from all over the world to experience swimming with giant humpback whales off the coast of the island of Mooreain French Polynesia, and at the same time, with his crew, plays the role of guardian of the whales. “In the past, foreign fishing boats, mainly Japanese, came near the coast of Tahiti to hunt for whales, but for twenty years French Polynesia has been a protected place for cetaceans and their capture is strictly prohibited.”

In fact, since 2002, the islands of Tahiti have hosted the largest marine sanctuary in the world: extending over an area of ​​about four million square kilometres, it is a refuge for protected and endangered species, including sea turtles, sharks and, of course, cetaceans. For the biodiversity conference held in Montreal last December, the Polynesian government announced its intention to create a new marine protected area of ​​500,000 km² in the southeast of the archipelago and recalled the need for the Polynesian territory to be recognized as a “Particularly sensitive marine area”.

With its 121 islands spread out in the heart of the Pacific Ocean, Polynesia is immense in size, dominated by water. Its population does not exceed 300 thousand inhabitants, of which two-thirds live on the island of Tahiti, the economic, cultural and political center of the country. A population that despite the cultural interference of the French missionaries, has been able to keep alive a culture of observation and respect for Nature.

For Polynesians, the ocean is the palingenetic place of birth and rebirth. Mana is the spirit of the islands: the force that binds the land, ocean, wildlife and people in a sacred bond. Respect for the spirit of Mana and the awareness that resources derive only from the surrounding environment, makes Polynesians protect their ecosystem through various practices. One among others is the ancestral practice of Rahui, which imposes temporary bans on fishing and hunting of certain marine and terrestrial species to ensure their conservation and renewal. And the Rahui it is still practiced today.

It is no coincidence that off the coast of the spectacular and paradisiacal Bora-Bora island is located the Coral Garden, the coral garden. Called “Aquarium” by local people, it is a beautiful garden off the southern end of Motu Pitiaau and Motu Piti Uuuta. Here butterfly fish, parrot fish, puffer fish, picasso fish, snapper, grouper, trumpet fish, unicorn fish, wrasses and many more roam the lagoon, coexisting peacefully with each other and offering a show that has no equal.

In leeward islands, even practicing sports is the bearer of a bond of respect towards the sea. It is significant that the Polynesian national sport is canoeing, the go. Elongated in shape and with a single lateral arm acting as a balance, this small boat can accommodate from one to six athletes, who use a single oar in alternating rhythm to paddle in the heart of the ocean or in the lagoon. No motor is used, just the mechanical energy impressed by human strength. This activity finds its maximum expression in the Hawaii Nui Va’athe toughest canoe race in the world, but also the longest and most spectacular.

With its 129 km covered in three days, without changing crew, this frenetic and exhausting race is a unique event, which the whole population attends by pouring onto the beaches or into the sea, with boats of the most varied shapes and sizes. Three days during which the athletes dart, almost dancing, from one island of the Leeward archipelago to another, crossing the open sea: from Huahine to Raiatea, from Raiatea to Taha’a and finally from Taha’a to Bora Bora . For those who compete it is essential to preserve the sea intact, celebrating it with stories and legends, dances and songs. In this case, even the most sporting and playful traditions – including Heiva, the great Polynesian cultural festival – can become the foundation for a popular culture based on respect and ecology.